Sunday, January 20, 2013

Continous versus Weave-It

I was lucky enough to run into Hazel Rose looms a few years ago when I belonged to a Tri-Loom Yahoo message board/email list.  At the time, there was a lot of experimentation by small woodworker/fiber artist teams who met on that list.  They discussed different ways of using the looms they made and different ways of making the looms.

The goal was to create a form of weaving which involved small to large frames studded with nails or hooks.

Small portable looms have been used for thousands and thousands of years.The types archaeologists tend to dig up, are usually of the tapestry or back strap or rug sort.  These looms require some sort of stationary anchor or weights in order to maintain tension on the warp threads. While you could unhook from the tree or whatever, in order to move your weaving with the tent and the herd, once you sat down again to start weaving, the loom was stationary.  You wouldn't pick it up and take it to the fire to work on while watching the pot boil, or pack it in a sack and carry it to town to work on while waiting in line.

Small modular looms that employ nails or hooks are much more portable, but are also not new.  "Weave-It" and "Love-or-Money" looms were popular during the last depression when weaving patchwork quilt size squares were popular among housewives.  They advertised themselves as perfect for creating an afghan or patching a pants knee. More than one person bought one of those looms believing they could actually weave an entire woolen suit and wear it in public and possibly sell clothes they had hand-made with it. 

These looms followed the mindset that you would have a warp and a weft.  One would warp the looms first and then, using a needle, weave back and forth to create a square of cloth.

When I first joined the Tri-Loom group they were concentrating on largish modular looms in the shape of a triangle that could be woven continuously.  While there was some talk that weaving shawls on these looms and selling them at craft fairs could easily recoup the cost -- that idea didn't last long. 

Weaving this way is no get-rich-quick thing.  There's no market for handwork here in the US that could possibly recoup the cost of the yarn.  There is so much cheap machine made crap flooding the market, you will not be selling stylish hand woven business suits using one of these small looms.  You will, however, be making your own blankets, scarves and shawls and ruanna's and your own washcloths, dishcloths and towels that will last you a lifetime.

The continuous method is different in that, there was no warp and weft.  The weaver doesn't warp the looms and then begin weaving.  The weaver attaches the yarn to a nail and starts weaving. 

The yarn is both warp AND weft. This type of weaving has the advantage that it was very homespun and novelty yarn friendly.  For the most part with harness and rigid-heddle looms, warp thread has to be uniform and smooth.  You can use whatever you like for the weft ... but the warp has to  be something that can be stretched at high tension and stand up to the abrasion of heddles.  While hand-spinners in earlier centuries produced yarn that could stand up to a loom, and while I have done so -- it's not fun.  It's hard work and there's nothing artsy-fartsy about it.

Modular looms, on the other hand, minimized abrasion on the yarn.  While weaving with some of the fuzzier mohair yarn is extremely difficult and time consuming -- other hand spun types like boucle and thick-N-thin bloom with this style of weaving. 

Usually, if you're going to weave Weave-It style with mock warp and weft, you'll need to use a Weave-It loom.  And you can find them for sale on eBay and elsewhere.  Hazel's looms, on the other hand, offer the best of both styles. They can be used either as a continuous weave loom or as a Weave-It type.  And interestingly enough, the every present X-mas variegated yarn behaves differently in each style of weaving.  You can see from the ruler that I've estimated that the Xmas yarn changes color about every 14 inches.

On the left is the Weave-It (WI)style and on the right is the continuously (C) woven.    Laying down a warp and then needle weaving a weft produces a plaid-ish square.  Weaving continuously, on the other hand, produces a log-cabin-ish look.  The differences don't stop there.  The WI square is much more loosely woven and you can clearly see the difference between the blue and the white backgrounds through it.  The background change isn't as noticeable on the C square, because it's woven on the bias, continuously and so contracts as soon as it's removed from the loom. 

Back when I frequented the Tri-Loom group there was a woman who actually space dyed "sunset" yarn so that weaving continuously would produce a triangle with a yellow bottom point that faded up through oranges and reds to purples and deep, deep blue at the hypotenuse.  Others were experimenting with math to place specific colors in specific places on the piece based on the size of the loom and the length of the color repeat.


If the squares above had been woven in 100% wool or Cotton, they could be fulled and both would be usable cloth.  The WI would be a more stable square while the C square would be more stretchy, but both could be joined to similarly woven squares to make a larger piece of cloth..

So, if you've suddenly discovered that you're spinning too fast for your knitting needles this may be a way to test the weaving waters before you plunk down $200 to $2,000 for a traditional loom.  If you want to learn more about these types of looms drop by Hazel Rose's website or Google "small looms."

Friday, January 4, 2013

Harlot Scarlet and Other Odd Things

The scarf I'm working on has two rows.  One is knit.  The other is simple lace pattern of decreases, yarn-overs and knit stitches in-between. Both sides of the work look amazingly alike.  This can be a problem if I can't remember where I left off when I set the work down the night before.

I'm sure that you can always tell where you are in the pattern when you pick up knitting you set aside.  You're either looking at the purl side of the work or you're not.  You're in the middle of the second repetition of a lace pattern, or you're not.  I'm lucky if I remember what row I'm on while I'm on it.  Yesterday, I got tired of dealing with a Miss Marple Mystery every single time I picked up my needles.   So I did something about it.


I've never had a manicure I haven't been able to trash in less than an hour. I type for a living and I type for pleasure.  I've worn the little letters off more than one keyboard.  But every once in a while I NEED orange and chartreuse fingernails.  This means that I have a wonderful collection of brightly colored enamel that will wear FOREVER on anything other than my nails.

Last night I decided that one of the needles would be the passive needle and that would be the one I use to knit the plain row.  It would be the plain needle.  The other needle would be the one I use to complete the pattern row.  The the active needle got a good glop of scarlet nail enamel.

Now, even if I find myself in the middle of a heated discussion, or the middle of a volcanic explosion on Nova, or a stirring paragraph in the book I'm reading, I'll never lose my place in the knitting. All I have to do is look at the butt end of my needles.

I don't know that you'll find this little tip useful, but go ahead, paint your needles.  You don't have to explain why to anyone on the bus.  It can be our secret.


Tuesday, January 1, 2013

A New New Year's Resolution

It didn't take long for me to break a pre-pre-New Year's Eve resolution that I would stop inflicting fiber experiments on my family when gifts are part of our celebrations.  Sorry ladies and gentlemen.  I'll do my best to keep the presents to things you might actually use or be able to regift.

At the same time I am partially confirming a real resolution to knit and crochet more and do less housework.  While I was guilty of washing the kitchen floor this morning and am in the process of baking a couple of squashes, I will be working in fiber and blogging about it much more this year. 

This is the beginning of a scarf using size 6 needles, and Vanna's Glamour in Diamond.  The pattern is a simple one: Two rows, one patterned and the other plain knit.  The result is a sparkling chevron pattern with eyelets.  I've condensed the pattern row onto a post-it so it can be carried with me in my tiny turquoise project tote.  The pattern can be found in Luxury Yarn One-Skein Wonders

I'm thinking this collection of patterns is going to get a lot of use.  I do enjoy spinning novelties and working with luxury fibers, but I usually run out of oomph after one or two 300 yard skeins.  Because chevrons play well with variegated yarns, and judiciously placed eyelets play nice with fuzzy yarns, I can see that this little blingy scarf will be a staple.